My car would turn over but not start. There was no spark at the plugs. The
signals to the ignition module were okay but there was no signal from the
ignition module to the coil. A new ignition module was fitted and the
car started. The ignition module is a small black box about the size of
a packet of cigarettes that is bolted to the underside of the ignition
coil. It has a seven pin connector plugged into it. FIAT only sell it
complete with the ignition coil for about £150 but the ignition
module can be brought from independant garages.
had difficulty starting his car when it was very cold -20
Steven Cooper says that
this was a wiring short circuit caused by a wiring insulator rubbing
against metalwork through split in the grommet at the bulk-head. This blew
the fuel pump relays. Fixed by replacing the wiring and relays.
It you leave the ignition on without starting the engine the solenoid is switched on the whole time. If left for about an hour (I was cleaning inside of car with portable vacuum cleaner) it overheats and sticks. Worth bearing in mind as it's £100 to replace.
Apparently the tolerences in it are very small so any dirt that gets
into it will cause it to get stuck which results in an engine that
won't run when cold.
If the valve has simply stuck and not burnt out it can usually be
freed up by cleaning it thoroughly in solvent. WD40 can be used as a quick
fix, it washes out some of the carbon deposits and lubricates the solenoid.
A longer lasting solution is to clean the solenoid with a carb cleaner.
Alexis Grant's car had been misbehaving for the last two weeks. It would cut out, flood the engine when cold and when hot idle at about 2000rpm. It would also have surges when driving. Alexis took is car to NJS to be looked at. NJS used their Fiat/Lancia ECU diagnosis tool to find the problem.
The problem is caused by a faulty coolant sensor. There are three coolant sensors on the Tipo, one that controls when the fan switches on/off, one for the dashboard gauge and one for the ECU. On Alexis car the sensor for the ECU was reporting the coolant temperature to be hotter than it really was. The coolant coolant sensor for the ECU sits underneath the idle valve, it has a blue clip and it quite awkward to get too. The unit needs replacing with a new one, which is about £30. Once replaced the ECU gave the same reading as the gauge on the dash board.
Alexis also found out that the J plate 92 ECU differs slightly from the K plate 93 and that his throttle position sensor which is found at the end of the plenum chamber should have read about 0.2 on the ECU when idle and his was way out. Now Alexis's car idles wonderfully.
Also check the condition of the distrbutor cap and rotor arm.
Andy Forsdyke says that where the coil lead went into the coil on his car was all burnt and corroded. He cleaned up the coil and replaced the distributor to coil lead and it fixed the problem. Steven Cooper says that he replaced the angle (TDC) sensor although it still happens occasionally when cold. It is the gap and not the sensor that's important. The car wouldn't start if it was faulty. The TDC sensor is positioned at the crank pulley. The pulley has 4 teeth. Position either of the teeth exactly center of the sensor and use a feeler gauge to adjust the gap. The sensor can also be adjusted vertically if necessary. If the gap is too small, it acts as a rev limiter. Keep the gap to betwen 0.6mm and 1.0mm.
It is possible that the distributor is not set in its correct position - this
will not affect the timing but it will affect the distance the spark has to
jump from the rotor tip to the output to the HT lead - in time this causes
erosion of the tip of the rotor and the output 'posts' inside the distributor cap.
The module sits underneath the coil at the front right of the engine. There
are two leads connected to the top of the coil. The first lead is the HT
lead that joins the left hand side of the coil to the distributor. Simply
pull this off. The second lead is a 4 pin plug that plugs into the right
hand side of the coil. Make sure you release the little catch on the right
side of the plug before you try to pull it up. Once you've removed these
two leads undo the two bolts that hold the coil onto the side of the
battery tray using a 10mm socket. Gently lift the coil forwards off the two
bolts, don't let go of it. At this point the ignition module that is
attached to the bottom of the coil is still attached to the wiring loop via
a large 7 pin connector. The lead from this connector comes up the front
side of the coil. To unplug this connector rotate the coil 90 degrees away
from you. Squeeze the metal spring clip that hold the connector onto the
ignition module and gently pull it off. Once this is done the coil is
completely disconnected. The best way to remove it is to lower it down
through the engine. The depth is too far to lower it all the way to the
floor. If your doing this by yourself you might want to rest the
coil/module on the lower radiator pipe before putting your hand up from
underneath the front bumper to grab it. Please be careful not to drop it on
the floor. Once the coil/module has been removed from the car turn it
upside down and undo the two screws that hold it onto the coil. The back of
the module will be sticky as it's a gel to dissipate the heat to the coil
which acts like a heat sink.
As far as I can see, simply increasing the amount fuel going into the engine will not necessarily improve performance as it will need extra air to combust properly. If extra air is not supplied then the closed loop system will detect the excess unburnt fuel in the exhaust gases and lean up the mixture.
My car has had one fitted but only because the larger Jaguar XJ6 throttle (50% bigger area) allows far more air into the engine. Extra fuel is thus needed otherwise the engine runs lean and produces less power than normal. Increasing the size of the injectors would allow more fuel in but this is expensive option and not very adjustable. A better approach I found was to increase the pressure in the fuel rail. The standard fuel pressure regulator fitted to the Tipo 16V is actually a FORD Zetec unit and is not adjustable. I had an adjustable version fitted by a garage as it is extremely difficult to get to. The unit itself cost £125 + VAT
Richard Ellingham says spend your money on something else. All these valves do is replace the standard manifold referenced fuel pressure regulator, with one with a higher diaphragm spring tension. The valves therefore increase base line fuel pressure, but under hard acceleration maintain a slightly higher pressure, hence why FSE call them snap response valves. They are meant to have their main effect on heavy acceleration. People who he knows have had them were never impressed.
The reason for fitting one is if your engine is breathing more efficiently, then your mixture maybe lean, so increasing fuel pressure will allow more fuel to be flowed for each injector opening and return the air fuel ratio to the stiochemetric ratio. However it's not as simple, even though it can be effective for a minor modification.
There is no need to buy a different valve. this may be crude, but
it has been advised in CCC magazine, and in modern engine tuning by
G. Bell, the standard valve can mildly be squashed between two sockets,
to increase the fuel return spring, and up the fuel rail pressure.
However none of this takes into account of the quality of air fuel
mixing into the cylinders at different rpm levels, neither does
it help out he ignition system, as ignition advance angles will no
longer be optimum.
Roy Tomlinson says try Bosch Super 4's as they've passed his doorstep challenge. They do work and make the car feel a bit crisper!
Nareman Virk says that
he uses NGK V-grooved (BPR-7E) because he says they're the best.
Unfortunately it's not the colour of the injector that determines the
flow rate, oh no that would be far too sensible. The flow rate should be
marked on the side of the injector.
If it only does this when cold then it might be
a dirty cold start valve. However it is does this when the engine is hot then it's
most likely that either the throttle butterfly spring is dirty and sticking or the
actual butterfly is sticking against the sides of the plenum chamber. If it's the
butterfly spring then simply spray it with a few coats of a penetrating oil such
as WD40. It may need a few coats to fully soak in and free it up. If this does not
work then remove the rubber flexi section off the end of the plenum chamber, you should
see the throttle butterfly now. Use carb cleaner to remove the build up
of carbon deposits that are causing it to stick to the sides of the plenum chamber.
This could be caused by the air flow meter. It sits on the left of the plenum
chamber at the back under the brake vacume connection and has a brown clip on it.